FRIENDS OF THE ALASKAN MALAMUTE CLUB

SELECTING YOUR ALASKAN MALAMUTE PUPPY

In the location and purchase of a purebred Alaskan Malamute, the best source is the breeder who has had years of experience and cares about the dogs that represent his kennel. He will honour his guarantees and can save newcomers from making many mistakes. He can advise about future purchases or breedings and can sponsor membership to our breed club, where members learn about Malamute activities in South Africa. His success is constantly being tested in the show ring as he strives to upgrade his stock and conform to the breed Standard.

Contact can be made with such a breeder by contacting our Club for their name, address and contact details. The secretary will supply you with a list of Malamute breeders. If there are no breeders near by, you can deal with any reputable breeder by e-mail.

You may be able to locate a Malamute puppy through local newspaper ads. Occasionally a reputable breeder will advertise there or in the national dog magazines. Often you will come in contact with a "back-yard" breeder. This is not always disastrous, but often such a breeder does not put proper planning, care and attention into the breeding or the litter. There may be no long term guarantees and the breeder may be unaware of hereditary defects bred into the litter. On the other hand, the back-yard breeder cam become an important breeder of the future and even an unlikely breeding can produce some outstanding results.

Another puppy outlet is the commercial pet shop. Pet shop personnel often know little about the pups they handle. Their main consideration may be a quick turnover while the puppies are still in their "cute" stage. After purchase, the buyer too often is on his own and pet shop personnel are not interested in further contact with buyer or pup.

Puppy Millers, such an outlet for puppies can be more damaging than any other. This is the "not-so-reputable" breeder who goes on year after year taking advantage of eager newcomers. He tells stories of "half wolf", "vicious and protective guard dogs" - anything the buyer may want to hear. He breeds litters with no thought to the Standard, soundness or temperament. This breeder is aware of hereditary problems but ignores them in breeding. If questioned, he makes light of the problem or trifles with the truth. Guarantees are non-existent or purposely vague.

There are certificates, reports and written guarantees to back up claims, and reputable breeders are happy to supply copies. Requesting these papers for your own files shows your interest and impresses the fact that you want to do right by the breed.

Even a top breeder cannot always pick the puppy that will become the best Malamute of a litter, but he can give honest professional advice on the basis of his experience.

We look for a short, broad head and muzzle, and a "cobby" look. The term cobby signifies a very compact, short body. A puppy lengthens in head and body, and we prefer the sturdy look to the rangy. Keep in mind the over-all proportion, for this is the single most important factor in the Malamute. Without it - regardless of size - stamina, balance, and working ability are affected. Heavy leg bone is an indication of a sturdy adult Malamute. The small boned puppy becomes a lightly built, small, or sometimes rangy adult. One successful breeder once told, "look for the puppies that are built like young bulls".

Puppy colour and markings are a good indication of the adult. Coats may go through several shadings of the basic colour and the adult guard coat is usually darker than the puppy undercoats. Any colour is acceptable but the distinctive facial markings must be symmetrical. In other words, one side of the face should be identical to the other, whether markings consist of cap, cap and goggles, or full mask. Symmetrical markings on chest, legs and underbody are also preferred, but uneven markings are not faulted as is facial imbalance. A white blaze, star on forehead, full or partial collar of white around the neck are all acceptable, but white splotches on shoulders or upper body are a disqualification for showing.

Eyes should be brown, the darker the better, and nose and lip line should be black except in red or whites, where they are a tan colour. The eye should be almond shaped and slanted up slightly toward the ear. Ears are folded over for the first four weeks of life. They begin to stand after four weeks but will often tip over during teething or early developmental stages. A puppy with tipped ears at weaning stage is no worry, but avoid the puppy whose ears lie flat against his head. A puppy whose ears have not stood erect by six months should have some help with taping. A veterinarian can recommend the procedure.

Beware of the long, soft, fluffy coats which often makes a puppy stand out as the cutest of the litter. Also avoid a soft, short coat that does not stand off from the body. Neither would protect a Malamute from the elements it would face in its native habitat. A puppy coat will be softer than the adult coat, for it consists mostly of the thick, warm undercoat with some evidence of stiff guard hairs. Keep in mind that a medium length, somewhat "bushy" double coat is called for in the Standard.

A healthy Malamute puppy is active, roly-poly, awkward, and may not be as cuddly as hoped. He simply does not have time to be a lap dog. Some Malamute puppies are aggressive, outgoing types that demand attention; others may sit back and study a situation before responding. Several may fall in between these categories. Choose the one which appeals to you most. Occasionally there may be a very shy puppy in the litter. It is best to pass him by unless you are prepared to give the extra attention required.

Check the teeth to see that they are reasonably close to the proper "scissors" bite. The outer side of the lower incisors should touch the inner side of the upper incisors. Minor imperfections will usually straighten out with development, but don’t expect miracles from badly matched teeth.

The top line will be erratic, for a puppy grows spasmodically, and we can only hope he will eventually attain the slightly sloping top line we are looking for. Gait is hard to evaluate in a excited puppy, but he should have a sturdy look with the four legs descending, straight of bone, beneath the corners of the body. The feet should point straight ahead; some slight toeing out of the front feet will usually correct itself as the chest develops and widens the elbows. Toeing in is more serious, for it will be increased as the chest develops. Extreme toeing out of the rear feet may indicate a "cowhocked" dog, and toeing in will result in a tiring, improper gait. Unproportionally large feet and knees are necessary in a puppy which develops quickly into a large, heavily built Malamute.

When buying a male puppy, make sure both testicles are present. The lack of either or both eliminates a dog from show and breeding and may cause serious medical problems in the adult. Check for them when the pup is totally relaxed, such as when eating or sleeping. A veterinarian can be consulted for examination, but be sure this factor is included in your guarantee.

Puppies are usually weaned and ready for travel at six weeks of age, eight weeks if being shipped by commercial carrier. They should have been treated for round worm and should have received their first DHL (distemper/hepatitis/leptospirosis) shot. If it is not possible to pick up your puppy personally, the breeder should have a veterinarian certify to the puppy’s good health and should make all arrangements to ship the puppy to the airport nearest you. You should be alerted to exact time of arrival, instructed on feeding and care, supplied with complete medical records for your veterinarian’s information.

The puppy may be frightened upon arrival, but a considerate, loving new family will provide a sense of security and companionship through the early adjustment. Malamute puppies are stable and hardy and need no special care. They thrive on outdoor living in all climates and need only a warm, dry place to sleep, shade in summer, and plenty of fresh water, good food and happy times with their family.

Papers on all purebred, registered litters can be obtained from Breed Registry Body, should you be a member. Each pup has an individual registration certificate which the new owner sends to the Breed Registry Body for transfer of ownership to his name. This form should be supplied by the breeder as soon as he has received full payment. In some cases the registration papers may not have been processed in time for the sale, but the breeder should guarantee they will be forthcoming. The pedigree form showing lineage behind the puppy is not a legal part of the registration, but is usually included as part of the sale. However, it is not mandatory. The information included on the registration form is enough to have a pedigree trace made by the Breed Registry Body.

It is sometimes possible to purchase a pet quality, purebred puppy at a lower price, without papers. It is advisable to neuter unregistered pets so they can be enjoyed by their families without worry that they will contribute to the canine population explosion. There is absolutely no truth to the old wives’ tale that a female needs to have one litter for proper development.

The general health of a puppy is usually guaranteed for a short period of time, such as two weeks. This covers any disease that may have been carried from the breeding kennel. The Malamute is one of the hardiest and most easily raised of all breeds, but illnesses and expenses can arise, and they are not the responsibility of the breeder. Hereditary defects are another matter.

The Onderstepoort Veterinary Institute has set up studies and suggested programs for combating two serious problems of our breed. The first is a condition common to all large breeds of dog, as well as to humans and other animals. It is "hip dysplasia", a condition defined as "an example of biomechanical disease representing a disparity between primary muscle mass and too rapid growth of the skeleton. There is a lag or failure of the muscles to develop and reach maturity at the same rate as the skeleton. This allows a major joint such as the hip, that depends on muscle power for stability, to pull apart and thus trigger a series of events that end in hip dysplasia and degenerative joint disease."

There are variant degrees of the condition. Arthritis may occur and the animal may suffer extremely. Some cases are hopeless and the only humane thing to do is put the affected animal to sleep. Others can be treated so the animal can live a comfortable but somewhat inactive life. Many cases are discernable only through the use of x-ray, and the afflicted animal can continue an active normal life. Regardless of the degree, affected animals must be removed from breeding programs in order to control the disease in future generations. I say control because there is little hope of defeating this complex genetic condition which can skip generations of sound animals only to reappear in extreme degrees. Breeding sound dogs to other sound dogs is no guarantee the resulting puppies will be clear of the disease, but it does keep the percentages of sound dogs high. The Malamute, however, does not carry as high a hip dysplasia rate as many other large breeds.

The Breed Registry Body is supporting the efforts of the Onderstepoort Veterinary Institute, which has become a clearing house for soundness and certification of all dogs that are cleared of hip dysplasia. Ask for proof of this certification when buying or breeding adult dogs. A puppy should have cleared parentage on both sides and should be guaranteed by replacement. Regretfully, this condition cannot be officially certified for the dog himself until at least two years of age.

A disease called "chondrodysplasia", has also been discovered in some Malamutes across the world. Unfortunately in South Africa such information can only be obtained from a breeder whether such problems have occured in his breeding lines. Chondrodysplasia, more commonly called dwarfism, was diagnosed originally as a form of rickets, but closer examination determined that this was incorrect. While it is not known exactly what the problem is, it has been proven to be genetic. Sire and dam both must carry the gene in order to produce an affected (chondrodysplastic) puppy.

In puppies under six weeks of age, the deformity is difficult if not impossible to detect. As puppies grow older, the problem becomes evident in the shape and length of the forelegs. Although the breeding of two carriers can produce a chondrodysplastic, a litter from a breeding between a carrier and a clear will show no physical signs of the deformity. However, some of the puppies will be carriers.

It is known that America, efforts are being made to develop a better method to test a suspected Malamute. For the present, test breeding to a known carrier or chondrodysplastic is the only means by which to be reasonably certain that a suspected Malamute is not a carrier.

It is essential for prospective Malamute purchasers to realise the importance of obtaining puppies from breeders whose Malamutes are genetically uninvolved. By purchasing from uneffected stock, the buyer not only is helping the breed cull out chrondrodysplasia but also is relieving himself of the responsibility of test-breeding.

We look forward to the day when it can be said Malamute owners took hold of the situation, organised a campaign in which every suspected carrier was test-bred, and every proven carrier was withdrawn from breeding, and chrondrodysplasia is just a name given to a problem that once affected the Alaskan Malamute breed.

BEWARE : Hip & Elbow Dysplasia is present in the Alaskan Malamute Breed.