Alaskan Malamute Breed Standards

Standards of the Breed

It is documented that the AKC does NOT intend to limit distribution of the Alaskan Malamute Standards on the net

(First Standard adopted in 1935, amended in 1960 and 1994 & also adopted by the FCI as the "Country of Origin Standard")

General Appearance

The Alaskan Malamute, one of the oldest Arctic sled dogs, is a powerful and substantially built dog with a deep chest and strong, well-muscled body. The Malamute stands well over the pads, and this stance gives the appearance of much activity and a proud carriage, with head erect and eyes alert showing interest and curiosity. The head is broad. Ears are triangular and erect when alerted. The muzzle is bulky, only slight diminishing in width from root to nose. The muzzle is not pointed or long, yet not stubby. The coat is thick with a coarse guard coat of sufficient length to protect a woolly undercoat. Malamutes are of various colors. Face markings are a distinguishing feature. These consist of a cap over the head, the face either all white or marked with a bar and/or mask. The tail is well furred, carried over the back, and has the appearance of a waving plume.

The Malamute must be a heavy boned dog with sound legs, good feet, deep chest and powerful shoulders, and have all of the other physical attributes necessary for the efficient performance of his job. The gait must be steady, balanced, tireless and totally efficient. He is not intended as a racing sled dog designed to compete in speed trials. The Malamute is structured for strength and endurance, and any characteristic of the individual specimen, including temperament, which interferes with the accomplishment of this purpose, is to be considered the most serious of faults.

Size, Proportion, Substance

There is a natural range in size in the breed. The desirable freighting sizes are males, 25 inches at the shoulders, 85 pounds; females, 23 inches at the shoulders, 75 pounds. However, size consideration should not outweigh that of type, proportion, movement and other functional attributes. When dogs are judged equal in type, proportion, movement, the dog nearest the desirable freighting size is to be preferred. The depth of chest is approximately one half the height of the dog at the shoulders, the deepest point being just behind the forelegs. The length of the body from point of shoulder to the rear point of pelvis is longer than the height of the body from ground to top of the withers. The body carries no excess weight, and bone is in proportion to size.

Head

The head is broad and deep, not coarse or clumsy, but in proportion to the size of the dog. The expression is soft and indicates an affectionate disposition. The eyes are obliquely placed in the skull. Eyes are brown, almond shaped and of medium size. Dark eyes are preferred. Blue Eyes are a Disqualifying Fault. The ears are of medium size, but small in proportion to the head. The ears are triangular in shape and slightly rounded at the tips. They are set wide apart on the outside back edges of the skull on line with the upper corner of the eye, giving ears the appearance, when erect, of standing off from the skull. Erect ears point slightly forward, but when the dog is at work, the ears are sometimes folded against the skull. High set ears are a fault.
The skull is broad and moderately rounded between the ears, gradually narrowing and flattening on top as it approaches the eyes, rounding off to cheeks that are moderately flat. There is a slight furrow between the eyes. The top line of the skull and the top line of the muzzle show a slight break downward from a straight line as they join. The muzzle is large and bulky in proportion to the size of the skull, diminishing slightly in width and depth from junction with the skull to the nose. In all coat colors, except reds, the nose, lips, and eye rims' pigmentation is black. Brown is permitted in red dogs. The lighter streaked "snow nose" is acceptable. The lips are close fitting. The upper and lower jaws are broad with large teeth. The incisors meet with a scissors grip. Overshot or undershot is a fault.
Neck, Top line, Body

The neck is strong and moderately arched. The chest is well developed. The body is compactly built but not short coupled. The back is straight and gently sloping to the hips. The loins are hard and well muscled. A long loin that may weaken the back is a fault. The tail is moderately set and follows the line of the spine at the base. The tail is carried over the back when not working. It is not a snap tail or curled tight against the back, nor is it short furred like a fox brush. The Malamute tail is well furred and has the appearance of a waving plume.

Forequarters

The shoulders are moderately sloping; forelegs heavily boned and muscled, straight to the pasterns when viewed from the front. Pasterns are short and strong and slightly sloping when viewed from the side. The feet are of the snowshoe type, tight and deep, with well-cushioned pads, giving a firm, compact appearance. The feet are large, toes tight fitting and well arched. There is a protective growth of hair between the toes. The pads are thick and tough; toenails short and strong.

Hindquarters

The rear legs are broad and heavily muscled through the thighs; stifles moderately bent; hock joints are moderately bent and well let down. When viewed from the rear, the legs stand and move true in line with the movement of the front legs, not too close or too wide. Dewclaws on the rear legs are undesirable and should be removed shortly after puppies are whelped.

Coat

The Malamute has a thick, coarse guard coat, never long and soft. The undercoat is dense, from one to two inches in depth, oily and woolly. The coarse guard coat varies in length as does the undercoat. The coat is relatively short to medium along the sides of the body, with the length of the coat increasing around the shoulders and neck, down the back, over the rump, and in the breeching and plume. Malamutes usually have a shorter and less dense coat during the summer months. The Malamute is shown naturally. Trimming is not acceptable except to provide a clean cut appearance of feet.

Color

The usual colors range from light gray through intermediate shadings to black, sable, and shadings of sable to red. Color combinations are acceptable in undercoats, points, and trimmings. The only solid color allowable is all white. White is always the predominant color on underbody, parts of legs, feet, and part of face markings. A white blaze on the forehead and/or collar or a spot on the nape is attractive and acceptable. The Malamute is mantled, and broken colors extending over the body or uneven splashing are undesirable.

Gait

The gait of the Malamute is steady, balanced, and powerful. He is agile for his size and build. When viewed from the side, the hindquarters exhibit strong rear drive that is transmitted through a well-muscled loin to the forequarters. The forequarters receive the drive from the rear with a smooth reaching stride. When viewed from the front or from the rear, the legs move true in line, not too close or too wide. At a fast trot, the feet will converge toward the centerline of the body. A stilted gait, or any gait that is not completely efficient and tireless, is to be penalized.

Temperament

The Alaskan Malamute is an affectionate, friendly dog, not a "one man" dog. He is a loyal, devoted companion, playful in invitation, but generally impressive by his dignity after maturity.

Summary

IMPORTANT: In judging Malamutes, their function as a sledge dog for heavy freighting in the Arctic must be given consideration above all else. The degree to which a dog is penalized should depend upon the extent to which the dog deviates from the description of the ideal Malamute and the extent to which the particular fault would actually affect the working ability of the dog. The legs of the Malamute must indicate unusual strength and tremendous propelling power. Any indication of unsoundness in legs and feet, front or rear, standing or moving, is to be considered a serious fault. Faults under this provision would be splay-footedness, cow hocks, bad pasterns, straight shoulders, lack of angulation, stilted gait (or any gait that isn't balanced, strong and steady), ranginess, shallowness, ponderousness, lightness of bone, and poor overall proportion.

Disqualifications

Blue Eyes

Approved April 12, 1994
Effective May 31, 1994

Overview by Tracy Young (AKC Breed Judge)

We thanks Tracy Young for her diligence, devotion, and hard work put into this wonderful judge's perspective.

Prior to 1935 and getting our own recognition and standard by the A.K.C., the Alaskan Malamute was registered under the standard of the "Eskimo" breed of dog. It is said by some of the old timers, that when the books opened up for the registration of Alaskan Malamutes, that anything that looked like an Alaskan Malamute was then registered as an Alaskan Malamute.

Alaskan Malamute 1941

The Alaskan Malamute Standard

The Alaskan Malamute Standard is and always be interpreted by everyone in a slightly different manner. It is designed with variables which can be generalized or specified, depending upon individual inference and perception. The following section is a rare insightful view of an AKC licensed judge's interpretation of the AKC Alaskan Malamute Standard.

The Proverbial Standard Of The Breed

Comparing it to the Bible is not too different. It is miss-understood, miss-interpreted, and used to one's benefit for their own dogs. As with the dictionary, you have to know how to spell before you can look it up! Getting to the current standard that was approved by the Alaskan Malamute Club of America, Inc. and The American Kennel Club on April 12, 1994 was a task no one should ever have to go through. The Standards Committee worked on this for years. The last revision was in 1982 and was changed to include the Disqualification of Blue Eyes. Bear in mind as you read this, that this is only my interpretation of the standard that I have gathered over the past 30 years, and "yes" we are still looking for the perfect Malamute.

Let's take each segment of the standard individually. Note that I have highlighted some key words in red, which I wish to place emphasis on, and which Tracy Young will comment on at the end of each heading in maroon.

General Appearance

The Alaskan Malamute, one of the oldest Arctic sled dogs, is a powerful and substantially built dog with a deep chest and strong, well-muscled body. The Malamute stands well over the pads, and this stance gives the appearance of much activity and a proud carriage, with head erect and eyes alert showing interest and curiosity. The head is broad. Ears are triangular and erect when alerted. The muzzle is bulky, only slight diminishing in width from root to nose. The muzzle is not pointed or long, yet not stubby. The coat is thick with a coarse guard coat of sufficient length to protect a woolly undercoat. Malamutes are of various colors. Face markings are a distinguishing feature. These consist of a cap over the head, the face either all white or marked with a bar and/or mask. The tail is well furred, carried over the back, and has the appearance of a waving plume.

The Malamute must be a heavy boned dog with sound legs, good feet, deep chest and powerful shoulders, and have all of the other physical attributes necessary for the efficient performance of his job. The gait must be steady, balanced, tireless and totally efficient. He is not intended as a racing sled dog designed to compete in speed trials. The Malamute is structured for strength and endurance, and any characteristic of the individual specimen, including temperament, which interferes with the accomplishment of this purpose, is to be considered the most serious of faults.

Size, Proportion, Substance

There is a natural range in size in the breed. The desirable freighting sizes are males, 25 inches (62cm) at the shoulders, 85 pounds (38kg); females, 23 inches (57cm) at the shoulders, 75 pounds (34kg). However, size consideration should not outweigh that of type, proportion, movement and other functional attributes. When dogs are judged equal in type, proportion, movement, the dog nearest the desirable freighting size is to be preferred. The depth of chest is approximately one half the height of the dog at the shoulders, the deepest point being just behind the forelegs. The length of the body from point of shoulder to the rear point of pelvis is longer than the height of the body from ground to top of the withers. The body carries no excess weight, and bone is in proportion to size.

Often we tend to guess what our dogs weight, and guess how tall they are. This has got to be the most miss-leading thing about our dogs.   We used to have matches where we would bring scales and a measuring device for all to weight and measure their dogs. Believe me, you have never seen so many dogs lose weight and shrink in height in a matter of minutes.

When measuring your dogs, always part the hair on the top of the shoulders.   Never include the undercoat or guard hair, as you will not get a true reading. The coat tends to make the dog look as though it weights more than it does. Next time you are at the vets, weight your dog. You should be able to feel the backbone, ribs, hipbones, etc. even with a profuse coat. Place your fingers into the coat when feeling for bones. there should be a slight covering of fat. If you can feel a deep indentation between the ribs, he might be underweight.

The bone proportion to size is another thing that can be questioned. You do not want a massive body with Siberian Husky legs, nor do you want a Malamute with Saint Bernard legs. Does the bone size match the body size? Does the dog have a skinny body with tree trunks for legs, of a massive body with toothpicks for legs?

Head

The head is broad and deep, not coarse or clumsy, but in proportion to the size of the dog. The expression is soft and indicates an affectionate disposition. The eyes are obliquely placed in the skull. Eyes are brown, almond shaped and of medium size. Dark eyes are preferred. Blue Eyes are a Disqualifying Fault.-

The head should not look like a basketball sitting on a neck.   Does the head appear larger than the rest of the body? Again, in proportion.

The eyes--I think the words obliquely, almond shaped, and medium size should all be in the same sentence to describe the eye. Round eyes do not fit into the description. Color--it states it very well, brown, but the darker the better.

The ears -are of medium size, but small in proportion to the head. The ears are triangular in shape and slightly rounded at the tips. They are set wide apart on the outside back edges of the skull on line with the upper corner of the eye, giving ears the appearance, when erect, of standing off from the skull. Erect ears point slightly forward, but when the dog is at work, the ears are sometimes folded against the skull. High set ears are a fault.

Compare the erect ears of a Siberian Husky to a Malamute.   Siberian Husky ears point to the sky and are close together when alert. Just a note, the Malamute will folds it's ears against the skull when it's in trouble with us human moms and dads, and usually when working. Siberians have high set ears.

The skull- is broad and moderately rounded between the ears, gradually narrowing and flattening on top as it approaches the eyes, rounding off to cheeks that are moderately flat. There is a slight furrow between the eyes. The topline of the skull and the topline of the muzzle show a slight break downward from a straight line as they join. The muzzle- is large and bulky in proportion to the size of the skull, diminishing slightly in width and depth from junction with the skull to the nose. In all coat colors, except reds, the nose, lips,- and eye rims' pigmentation -is black. Brown is permitted in red dogs. The lighter streaked "snow nose" is acceptable. The lips are close fitting. The upper and lower jaws are broad with large teeth. The incisors meet with a scissors grip. Overshot or undershot is a fault.

Slight break-- the "stop" should not look like a backward "L", more like a beginner's ski slope. Snow nose-- what is that? It's a streak in the middle of the nose that is lighter than the rest of the pigmentation on the nose. The streak is usually a very light gray color that the pigmentation can be seen as being there. Other streaks that are pink in color that show no pigmentation, are not a snow nose. Snow noses usually occur in the winter time, and will darken during the summer time.

Lips close fitting-- drooping lips that look like a Saint Bernard's are not acceptable.
Overshot or undershot-- this one used to confuse me quite a bit, I could never get them right. An overshot bit is where the top teeth go past the lower teeth leaving a space.   Remember top = over. The undershot is just the opposite. The bottom teeth go past the upper teeth leaving a space. Bottom = under.

Neck, Topline, Body

The neck is strong and moderately arched. The chest is well developed. The body is compactly built but not short coupled. The back is straight and gently sloping to the hips. The loins are hard and well muscled. A long loin that may weaken the back is a fault. The tail -is moderately set and follows the line of the spine at the base. The tail is carried over the back when not working. It is not a snap tail or curled tight against the back, nor is it short furred like a fox brush. The Malamute tail is well furred and has the appearance of a waving plume.

Short coupled: coupling is the distance between the last rib and the start of the hipbone area in the middle of the body of the dog.
Loin: the top portion of the coupling, just under and along the spine.
Tails: we are starting to see more problems in this area. At the National Specialty in Salt Lake City, Utah, our judge was Ms. Penny Devaney, a long-time breeder. At the banquet that night she made comments in regards the structure of our current dogs.   She made one comment that made me sit up and take notice. Her comment was in regards the distance between the top protruding hip-bones, and the start of the base of the tail, and how it has shortened over the years.

Could this be where the snap-tails are coming from? The following day, I started to ask the exhibitors that I knew, let me feel the distance on each dog between the hip-bones and the base of the tail.   Of all the dogs I examined, only 5 or so had snapped tails. Sure enough, the distance was extremely short, compared to the dogs with the proper tail. Could this be our problem with snapped tails?

Forequarters
The shoulders are moderately sloping; forelegs heavily boned and muscled, straight to the pasterns when viewed from the front. Pasterns are short and strong and slightly sloping when viewed from the side. The feet are of the snowshoe type, tight and deep, with well-cushioned pads, giving a firm, compact appearance. The feet are large, toes tight fitting and well arched. There is a protective growth of hair between the toes. The pads are thick and tough; toenails short and strong.

Hindquarters
The rear legs are broad and heavily muscled through the thighs; stifles moderately bent; hock joints are moderately bent and well let down. When viewed from the rear, the legs stand and move true in line with the movement of the front legs, not too close or too wide. Dewclaws on the rear legs are undesirable and should be removed shortly after puppies are whelped.

Stifles-- The stifles of a German Shepard dog would be considered overly bent for the Malamute, and the stifles of a Chow Chow would be considered straight in stifle. Well Let Down-- means short.

Coat
The Malamute has a thick, coarse guard coat, never long and soft. The undercoat is dense, from one to two inches in depth, oily and woolly. The coarse guard coat varies in length as does the undercoat. The coat is relatively short to medium along the sides of the body, with the length of the coat increasing around the shoulders and neck, down the back, over the rump, and in the breeching and plume. Malamutes usually have a shorter and less dense coat during the summer months. The Malamute is shown naturally. Trimming is not acceptable except to provide a clean cut appearance of feet.

The following is an article Tracy Young wrote for a magazine, in regards coat:

THE PROPER ALASKAN MALAMUTE COAT

IN THE NEW AND OLD OFFICIAL STANDARD OF THE AMERICAN KENNEL CLUB, WHICH WAS DEVELOPED AND APPROVED BY THE ALASKAN MALAMUTE CLUB OF AMERICA, 1NC. (THE RULING AUTHORITY FOR THE ALASKAN MALAMUTE STANDARD) JUST ABOUT SAYS IT ALL IN THE FIRST SENTENCE. "THE MALAMUTE HAS A    THICK, COARSE GUARD COAT, NEVER LONG AND SOFT" IN THE OLD STANDARD THE WORD ‘NOT’ WAS USED. THIS HOWEVER HAS BEEN CHANGED TO THE WORD ‘NEVER’ THE OLD STANDARD DOES STATE THE DESIRED LENGTH OF THE UNDERCOAT TO BE 1 TO 2 INCHES IN DEPTH. THIS IS A GOOD OPINION OF THE CORRECT DEPTH, WITH THE GUARD HAIR BEING ABOUT 1/2 TO 1 INCH LONGER THAN THE UNDERCOAT. GIVING AN APPEARANCE OF A ‘HALO’ AROUND THE ENTIRE BODY OF THE DOG. THE LONG COATED ALASKAN MALAMUTE PRESENTS SEVERAL PROBLEMS WHEN WORKED IN THE SNOW. THE LONG WISPY HAIR ON THE FEET, UNDER BODY, AND TAIL COLLECT SNOWS WHICH TURNS INTO ICE. ICE BALLS FORM IN BETWEEN THE TOES, AND WILL CRIPPLE THE DOG FROM PERFORMING Its ORIGINAL PURPOSE. THE LONG COAT ON THE UNDER BODY AND TAIL WILL ALSO COLLECT SNOW AND TURN INTO ‘ICICLES’ HANGING ON THE COAT. SINCE THE TAIL IS USED TO COVER THE NOSE FOR WARMTH, IT IS DIFFICULT TO ACHIEVE THE WARMTH NEEDED. THE ‘ICICLES’ CAN NOT BE REMOVED BY SHAKING THE BODY AS IT IS DONE TO REMOVE SNOW FROM THE DOG. THE UNDERCOAT IS WHAT KEEPS THE DOG WARM, AND THE GUARD COAT WORKS TO KEEP THE SNOW FROM REACHING THE UNDERCOAT. LIKE ‘SPIKES’ THAT CATCH THE SNOW, WHEN THE DOG WISHES TO REMOVE THE SNOW, HE STANDS AND SHAKES HIS ENTIRE BODY INCLUDING THE TAIL. THE LONG COATED MALAMUTE DOES NOT HAVE THE ‘SPIKES’, AND THE SNOW WILL NOT BE REMOVED AS COMPLETELY AS THE NORMAL COAT. THE LONG COAT DOES NOT SEEM TO BE AS OILY AS A NORMAL COAT; THUS THE SNOW CLINGS MORE TO THIS COAT. THE UNDERCOAT OF A LONG-COATED MALAMUTE IS VERY SIMILAR TO A KEESHOND COAT. SPONGY AND ELASTIC IN TYPE. THE LOCK COAT MATS INTO BALLS AND MUST BE CUT OUT OF THE COAT, ESPECIALLY BEHIND THE EARS, UNDER THE FRONT LEGS, AND IN THE BREACHING (PANTS) AND TAIL AREA. IT REQUIRES CONSTANT GROOMING AND CARE. THE PROPER COAT NEEDS LITTLE GROOMING, AND IS NEVER TRIMMED, EXCEPT FOR FEET FOR APPEARANCE ONLY.

BY TRACY YOUNG, BREEDER-JUDGE

Color
The usual colours range from light grey through intermediate shadings to black, sable, and shadings of sable to red. Colour combinations are acceptable in undercoats, points, and trimmings. The only solid colour allowable is all white. White is always the predominant colour on underbody, parts of legs, feet, and part of face markings. A white blaze on the forehead and/or collar or a spot on the nape is attractive and acceptable. The Malamute is mantled, and broken colours extending over the body or uneven splashing are undesirable.

Trimmings - Shadings of gold, cream, buff, brown or reddish hues often found on legs, ears, tail and face between white areas of the underbody and the dark colour above.

Mantled: a marking that appears to be a blanket over the body but not extending to the under body. The German Shepard is a good example.

Gait - Movement   /   Structure
The gait of the Malamute is steady, balanced, and powerful. He is agile for his size and build. When viewed from the side, the hindquarters exhibit strong rear drive that is transmitted through a well-muscled loin to the forequarters. The forequarters receive the drive from the rear with a smooth reaching stride. When viewed from the front or from the rear, the legs move true in line, not too close or too wide. At a fast trot, the feet will converge toward the centreline of the body. A stilted gait, or any gait that is not completely efficient and tireless, is to be penalized.

The Malamute does not single-track as with the Siberian Husky. Converging toward does not mean converging on the centreline of the body. (Often described as the centre line of gravity.) The Siberian Husky standard calls for "single-tracking". When viewed from the front to rear while moving at a walk the Siberian Husky does not single- track, but as the speed increases the legs gradually angle inward until the pads are falling on a line directly under the longitudinal centre of the body. Please see illustrations below:

Drawings and captions are taken directly from Racheal Page Elliott's "Dog Steps" book. All credit and acknowledgement is issued in the reprint of these specific sections, with gratitude. For a complete knowledge-base and understanding of movement, please take the time to acquire a copy of this longstanding, time honoured publication, and read it's well investigated insight.

Normal Leg Position at the Trot
"Converging towards the Center line"

When a dog breaks into a trot, his body is supported by only tow legs at a time, which move in alternating diagonal pairs. He must therefore balance himself, as nearly as possible, over a center column of support, in order to travel easily and efficiently: otherwise, he will wobble from side to side. To achieve balance, his legs angle inward toward a center line beneath his body, and the greater the speed, the closer they come to tracking on a straight line, much as a human runs with one foot in front of the other to keep his body from swaying. Variations in the dog's height, breadth of body, and length of leg, influence the extent to which the legs incline inward, but all dogs make the effort - regardless of breed or type. The angle of inclination should begin at the point of the shoulder, or at the hip joint, and the limbs should remain relatively straight from these points to the pads of the feet, even as the legs flex or extend in reaching and thrusting. Such action is described as "moving straight". This natural law of balance is one of the most important factors in understanding gait as dogs come and go from the viewer, and it should never be confused with the fault of "moving close"

PARALLEL TRACKING (Fault)
Others leave parallel tracks, in which the footprints fall apart on either side of the center line of travel. Speed will influence the degree to which the legs incline inward.

SINGLE TRACKING (Fault)
Some other breeds, like the Siberian Husky, "single track" when they trot fast, all footprints falling on a single line of travel.

Structure

Temperament:

The Alaskan Malmaute is an affectionate, friendly dog, not a "one man" dog. He is a loyal, devoted companion, playful in invitation, but generally impressive by his dignity after maturity.

No where does it say that the Malmaute is an aggressive, guard dog type in it's temperament, or aggressive toward people. As we owner's know, they are just big silly's. Your life is never dull from all their antics. However, if a Malamute is aggressive, I question the breeder and / or the owners. Selective breeding by the breeders can eliminate this, and proper corrections and training by the new owner is a must. They are just like kids; they will do anything we allow them to get away with. In other words, don't let a cute puppy get away with anything you don't want a 100 pound dog doing.

Summary

IMPORTANT: In judging Malamutes, their function as a sledge dog for heavy freighting in the Arctic must be given consideration above all else. The degree to which a dog is penalized should depend upon the extent to which the dog deviates from the description of the ideal Malamute and the extent to which the particular fault would actually affect the working ability of the dog. The legs of the Malamute must indicate unusual strength and tremendous propelling power. Any indication of unsoundness in legs and feet, front or rear, standing or moving, is to be considered a serious fault. Faults under this provision would be splay-footedness, cow hocks, bad pasterns, straight shoulders, lack of angulations, stilted gait (or any gait that isn't balanced, strong and steady), rangiest, shallowness, ponderousness, lightness of bone, and poor overall proportion.

DISQUALIFICATION
Blue Eyes

Approved April 12, 1994
Effective May 31, 1994

Malamute Structural Differences

Do you know the AKC Standard? Can you pick the Alaskan Malamute that most resembles the description in the AKC standard in each question? Though there are many different "styles" and colors in the Alaskan Malamute, good structure should be the same everywhere.

The Alaskan Malamute is a working breed, often doing the jobs of companion and show dog, but should still be capable of performing its original function of working in harness. The judge is expected to understand the structure which contributes to a working dog and also the nuances of type which are distinctive to the breed.

Test your knowledge with the quiz below.

Objective: See how many questions you can answer correctly. Write down the numeric question number with the alpha character you think is the correct answer (e.g 1C, 12C & 30B etc) before viewing the correct answers by clicking the CORRECT ANSWERS hyperlink below.

(photos have been altered to illustrate each point)


A                          B                           C                         D

Q1. The Alaskan Malamute's "stop" (the slope between the forhead and the muzzle) should be:

(A) Moderate as in dog A
(B) No break from a straight line, (such as a collie head) as in B
(C) Pronounced, as in dog C
(D) Only a slight break downward as they join as in D


        A                                     B                                           C                                      D

Q2. The depth of chest according to the standard should be:
(A) deeper than the distance from elbow to ground
(B) depth of chest is 1/2 the height at the shoulders
(C) there should be a sufficient amount of leg below the chest
(D) very deep and wide, below the elbow and more than the distance from elbow to withers



A                                   B                                         C                                  D

Q3. In body proportion, the Alaskan Malamute should be:
(A) noticeably longer than the height
(B) slightly longer than the height
(C) square
(D) very short and stocky


A                                         B                                       C

Q4. Which Alaskan Malamute body best represents correct amount of bone:
(A) Heavy, but not overboned
(B) Ponderous, thick and very heavy bone
(C) Light but strong bone
(D) none of the above


A                               B                               C

Q5. The Alaskan Malamute's eyes should be positioned:
(A) at a 40° angle to the stop
(B) obliquely
(C) perpendicular to the stop
(D) does not matter, as long as they are the correct shape
Q6. Acceptable eye color is important according to the AKC standard. Therefore,
(A) blue is an acceptable color
(B) the preferred color is light brown
(C) yellow is acceptable and preferred
(D) the eyes should be dark brown, the darker the better


A                               B                             C

Q7. In shape, the eyes should be
(A) almond, as in dog A
(B) round, as in dog B
(C) a narrow almond, as in dog C
(D) none of the above


   A                                B                                C                            D

Q8. Correct tail set in the Alaskan Malamute should be:
(A) well furred, loosely held, high over the back
(B) held loosely, curled on the back
(C) slightly curled, resting on the back
(D) short furred and tightly curled


    A                                           B                                       C

Q9. Ears of the Alaskan Malamute should be medium size but small in proportion to the head and set:
(A) on the side of the head
(B) high on the head
(C) in line with the corner of the eye
(D) location is not important, only size matters


          A                                 B                                C

Q10. Correct rear angulation should be:
(A) straight
(B) moderate
(C) very angulated
(D) none of the above

A                            B                             C

Q11. Hind legs and their movement should:

(A) not appear bowed in bone, but stand and move true, not too wide or narrow
(B) be powerfully muscled through the thigh, converging closely when moving
(C) appear bowed from the rear, not abundantly muscled, and moving wide
(D) slightly cowhocked, converging as speed increases


   A                                        B                                              C

Q12. A correct topline in an adult dog should:
(A) have a slight dip
(B) gently sloping from front to rear
(C) be absolutely level
(D) none of the above

A                         B                           C

Q13. Which puppy has the most correct front?   A correct front should:
(A) toe out, with elbows in
(B) toe in, with elbows out
(C) toe out slightly, but generally be straight
(D) toe in more than shown, to allow for growth
Q14. An Alaskan Malamute should have large teeth, and a correct bite should be:

(A) overshot (with the front teeth far in front of the bottom teeth)
(B) undershot (with the front teeth behind the bottom teeth)
(C) level (the top and bottom teeth meet tip to tip)
(D) scissors (the front teeth fit tightly in front of the bottom teeth)
Q15. Gait (movement) should be:
(A) powerful, loose, jaunty
(B) tireless, with flying kick
(C) balanced, steady, powerful
(D) relaxed, slightly to the side, steady



     A                                     B                                     C                                    D

Q16. Which dog above has a correct length of coat (assuming all are of a coarse texture):
(A) Dog A and dog D
(B) Dog B and dog D
(C) All except C
(D) Only C

A                        B                        C                      D

Q17. Which pastern (front ankle) is most correct (when viewed from the side):
(A) Pasterns should have moderate let down
(B) Pasterns should well let down for flexibility
(C) Pasterns should be straight and very thick boned
(D) Pasterns should be short and strong and almost vertical


A                                           B                                          C

Q18. The Alaskan Malamute standard says:
(A) a completely pink nose (lacking all pigment) in winter is acceptable
(B) a snownose is acceptable
(C) a lack of ANY pigment on the nose is never allowed, all noses should be black, even on red dogs
(D) a dog with a snownose can be shown, but should be faulted

A                                  B                                    C                                  D

Q19. Which marking is incorrect in the Alaskan Malamute:
(A) A symetrical blaze on the forehead
(B) A band of dark (a "necklace") across the chest
(C) a large irregular splash of white on the body
(D) a nape spot
Q20. Feet should be:
(A) Large, toes tight fitting and well-arched
(B) Large with thick tough pads, and short strong nails
(C) Compact, with a protective growth of hair between the toes
(D) All of the above



           A                                    B                                C

Q21. Lips should be:

(A) loose with good pigment
(B) tight, a lack of pigment is acceptable
(C) tight with dark pigment
(D) doesn't matter


A                              B                                  C                                    D

Q22. The muzzle and skull should be:
(A) as short as possible with a pronounced backskull and stop
(B) longer and pointed muzzle, with lots of cheek
(C) broad and bulky, head is heavy and large in proportion to the body
(D) the head is broad, muzzle is bulky and not pointed, long or stubby
Q23. A dog may be trimmed for show in the following ways:
(A) anywhere necessary for a neat appearance as long as it looks natural
(B) belly, breaches and feet
(C) hocks and pads of the feet, especially any long hair between toes
(D) pads of the feet only
Q24. A correct coat should be:
(A) extremely coarse and wavy when viewed up close, 2" longer than the undercoat
(B) soft enough to repel water and slightly longer than undercoat
(C) coarse, with 2 to 5 bands of color and close in length to the undercoat
(D) coarse, of sufficient length to protect a wooly undercoat
Q25. Expression should be:
(A) coarse, masculine and tough in both sexes
(B) "soft" expression, pretty and contrasting in both sexes
(C) soft expression indicating an affectionate disposition
(D) intelligent and thoughtful, with great depth of character
Q26. The temperament of the Alaskan Malamute should be:
(A) Aggressive and willing to challenge other dogs
(B) Indifferent to other dogs, reserved, willing to work
(C) Affectionate, friendly, with an impressive dignity at maturity
(D) A clown - entertaining and playful with everyone, even as an adult
Q27. Which quality is most important for an Alaskan Malamute to have:
(A) proportion and head type
(B) ability to do heavy freighting
(C) speed and endurance
(D) all of the above
Q28. Which Alaskan Malamute trait is a disqualification:
(A) Long coat
(B) Blue eyes
(C) Unsound feet
(D) Poor temperament

A                B                  C                 D

Q29. Which Alaskan Malamute bitch is closest to the correct size, according to the standard, all else being equal?
(A) bitch A
(B) bitch B
(C) bitch C
(D) bitch D


A                                            B                                             C                                         D

Q30. The neck should be:
(A) strong and moderately arched
(B) held high at all times
(C) thick, short and well muscled
(D) graceful and not overdeveloped

FREQUENTLY ASK QUESTIONS?

Is a Malamute part wolf?

No. The Alaskan Malamute is a domesticated pure bred dog, and has been for many centuries. They are often mistaken for wolves, and they are often used in movies to depict wolves, but they are most certainly not wolves or part wolf. Some people also refer to them "Wolf Dogs".

How do they handle the summer heat?

Like any dog, to cope with summer heat the Alaskan Malamute needs a constant supply of water to drink and shade from the sun. If the dog is allowed inside then it will find it's own cool room (probably on the kitchen or bathroom floor if it is tiled or linoleum floored). Some dogs like having ice added to their water to help keep it cool. Some also enjoy a children's wading pool filled with water in the summer time. The Malamute sheds a lot of coat directly before summer, as soon as the whether starts to warm up, which also allows them to keep cool. Heavy exercise should be avoided in excessive heat. Curtail exercise times to be early morning or just after sunset. Once the dog is acclimated to his environment, he is usually fine. Malamutes are remarkably adaptable animals. However, one should never try and push a dog beyond his capability to cope with the heat. To do so can be disastrous. One must keep in mind the type of climate the dog is acclimated for and not look for signs of heat stress. Do not ever lock any dog in a car in direct sunlight, or in the shade for a great deal of time, even with the windows down a little for ventilation the heat generated by the dog is still enough to cause heat stress in summer.

What are they like with children?

Due to their gentle temperament the Alaskan Malamute is generally a very good family dog. They seem to enjoy the company of children, though common sense must be used when mixing any dog with young children. They are a very powerful dog and children should not be left in total control of the dog. Alaskan Malamutes are generally patient by nature and will tolerate young children fawning over them, but this should be strictly supervised for the sake of the dog as well as the child. With these caveats in mind, since Malamutes love attention, well behaved children get along wonderfully with well mannered and socialized Malamutes.

What are they like inside a house, being so big?

Alaskan Malamutes, aside from the occasional invasion of masses of fur when they are shedding coat, are excellent house dogs. They are extremely clean dogs and surprisingly quiet. They are very sure-footed and in no way clumsy around furniture. They will often pick out a favorite sleeping spot and stay there for hours. Favorite spots seem to be tiled and linoleum floors in warm weather, soft pillows or beds at other times.

How much do they eat?

Most Malamutes love food, however they eat surprisingly little for their size. The actual amount of food will vary depending on the metabolism and activity level of the dog, and the type of food that is given. A working adult will eat approximately 4 cups of high density food per day. Other dogs will generally eat less. Puppies require smaller, more frequent meals.

How much exercise do they need, and what kind?

You should not strenuously exercise a puppy under 6 months of age. Their muscular-skeleto system is not developed enough yet. Their play is enough to keep them healthy. You should play with your puppy and work on some of the basic obedience commands with him, in a playful way. Once the dog is 6 months old, a kindergarten puppy training class or a basic obedience class is a very good idea. It will start you both out on the right foot. You can then more easily start taking the dog for walks in your area on a leash. By the time the dog is full grown, at around 18 months, he will be ready for much longer walks, an hour per day or more. The obedience training will make the walks much more enjoyable. Alaskan Malamutes also enjoy jogging, but this should not be attempted until the dog is 18 months old or older. Hiking, with a dog back-pack is great fun. One can also bike with a dog, with a nifty device known as a "Springer." Finally, sledding is an excellent form of exercise, and is what the dog was bred for. The sled dog part of the FAQ for rec.pets.dogs covers these things in more detail.

Do they pull sleds very fast?

The Malamute is a very strong dog, but not as fast as some of the other northern breeds. Malamutes are not as fast as, say Siberians, and because of this are not typically used in sprint sled racing or a race like the Iditarod (although they sometimes are). Endurance and strength are the Malamute staples, and they are frequently used for exploratory trips across the North Pole or Antarctica (most recently, in the Trans-Antarctic expedition) and in weight pull competitions.

How strong are they?

The Malamute is a very strong dog. They were originally freighting dogs and as such, are able to pull tremendous amounts of weight. Just from looking at the Malamute, and the size of his bones and his stature, it is easy to see that they are indeed very strong animals. For this reason, many people use them in weight pulling competitions, where they will pull thousands of pounds.

Do they shed a lot?

Malamutes blow their undercoats twice per year. They do not typically shed year round like many dog breeds. When they do blow their coat, they loose lots of hair (several grocery sacks full per week).

Do they like to fight other dogs?

No. Malamutes are very pack oriented dogs. As such, they communicate with other dogs in a variety of ways. An ill mannered, aggressive dog is not a good team dog and therefore not a good sled dog. However, poorly socialized and trained Malamutes can be aggressive towards other dogs. For this reason, it is very important for a Malamute owner to train the dog carefully and make sure to properly socialize it with other dogs.

I've heard Malamutes are dumb. Is this true?

No! Alaskan Malamutes are extremely intelligent working dogs. People often mistake the fact that they can be difficult to train as a sign of stupidity. Malamutes are very clever and easily bored. The key to training them is to keep them interested and to challenge their intelligence. A Malamute probably knows what you want him to do, he just may not want to do it!

Just how cold can an Alaskan Malamute live in?

Alaskan Malamutes can work and live in extremely cold conditions, approaching 70 degrees below zero.